Photos by: Sam Friedman 

March 18-20
The Melkweg
Amsterdam, The Netherlands

March 16

Having so looked forward to making it to Amsterdam the day before the third annual Jam in the Dam started this year, rather than arriving the day of the show and having to persevere through the day and coming night of music like I did last year, I was dreaming of the bed awaiting me after a trans-Atlantic flight. The weather decided that I should go through the process of getting all excited, double-double checking my single backpack of gear (that’s all I need), securing a ride to the airport and, after strolling to the check-in counter for my long-awaited plane ticket, finding out that my flight had been delayed. I wouldn’t be able to make the connection flight from Atlanta, Georgia to Amsterdam. Noooo! Damn it! Breathe, Calm down…“There’s nothing you can do about it,” I told myself…and left the airport with a pout.

 March 17

I made it past the Delta check-in counter today. Everything seems to be all go as I wait for my flight to Atlanta. From there, I’m crossing the ocean for a little more freedom. Luckily, my travel partners were able to check into our apartment even though I wasn’t there. They’ll be able to get some sleep as I fight the airports. It’s only now that I realize the ultimate value of my new iPod Nano, just received this past Christmas. Thanks, mom! Music’s the best cure for dealing with the business of flying.

Skip ahead… I’m in Atlanta now, going through the process of trans-Atlantic travel and the invasion of space involved to keep us all safe from grannies with bombs in their purses. My theory that long curly hair and a beard had something to do with my getting the extra “random” search last year, while my short-haired friend didn’t, might have been off. The five people in front of me today were searched while I was allowed to pass on through… they did glare at me, as though I should be added to the lineup, but I was permitted to walk.

March 18

We landed in Schiphol Airport in The Netherlands at around 7:30AM. I speed walked to the ticket booth for a train pass and jogged downstairs to catch my ride to stoner Mecca. Out of Central Station, into the city of Amsterdam and it’s a great, exciting feeling. In America, cigarette smokers might feel shunned sometimes, but people who smoke marijuana face an entirely larger glass ceiling of sorts. Jobs want to test your urine (even with a degree), road blocks can ruin your life for a roach in the ash tray, but Amsterdam is marvelous and so free.

I leisurely strolled to a pipe shop and grabbed a cheap glass bowl. I got so wet from the rain during my walk, but rather than making the trip to my apartment I decided to head back towards Central Station to visit a coffeeshop called Central. They have this box that rests open on the counter and you can grab pre-weighed bags of marijuana from it. This allows you to see the available product before you choose, whereas most coffeeshops only have a menu with a list of their available breeds along with short descriptions of the taste, high and possibly something about the genetic history of the plant. I usually just need to see the plant to know if I want it, so I make Central a necessary first stop.

Securing a couple grams of White Widow, I sat down at a random table with two random strangers. One was an American whose flight to somewhere had a layover in The Netherlands; he had run to Amsterdam to kill time. We talked a little about jambands past, present and future as he claimed to have been to some insanely large number of Grateful Dead shows; he looked like he probably had. Skipping out pretty quickly, I was left talking with the other stranger, a “claimed” British ex-patriot with family roots on the island of Cyprus. We got into a long discussion about American politics and the ways of the world; he made it excessively clear that he hates Toni Blair more than Bush. I killed my joint and told him to hold his thoughts as I jumped back in line for another bag of some un-labeled flower that looked like the best in the box. I rolled another joint beside the man, lit it and we continued to discuss for another half hour or so. Finally worn out, dried out from the rain and ready to walk, I bid him farewell and kind wishes before starting my 25 minute (or so) walk across the city. I love Amsterdam!!!

I found my apartment with no problem and got up with a smoking buddy. We strolled to a couple coffeeshops before heading back to the apartment for a little while. The music wasn’t far off. 

And the show begins! John DiMaggio, the voice of Futurama’s Bender character, showed up unannounced to introduce Yonder Mountain String Band. Jeff Austin came out with an obvious, “we’re excited,” also saying, “This is a cool place to get to play music for a couple of days.” Then it was a marathon… three days to go. Since the sets overlap between the Melkweg’s two halls, I decided to run over to Keller’s side for the start of his set (he was also at the first Jam in the Dam), after catching Yonder playing Benny Galloway’s “Deep Dark Hole in the Hill” and a beautiful “Red Rocking Chair.”

Keller started with a little acoustic medley and later played a hilarious cover of Nirvana’s “Lithium,” one he plays a lot, but he was on it tonight. A run of acoustic songs and loops included a smile-inducing “Freek Show,” after which he claimed to be “already in the zone” and freestyled about being lost in Amsterdam > “Freek Show.” The Butthole Surfers’ “I Don’t Mind the Sun Sometimes” was played, “Stinky Green” was sure to be played and came out early (early being the first night). Before I knew it, it was Dark Star Orchestra time in the other concert hall.

“China Cat Sunflower” > “I Know You Rider” cracked open the three-night Dark Star Orchestra run in tribute to the 25-year anniversary of the one and only time the Grateful Dead played the Melkweg. Time restraints didn’t allow for an exact account of the Dead’s performance, but the songs came smooth and were tastefully picked. The Grateful Dead element must have also contributed to the older faces in the crowd this year, compared to last year when The Disco Biscuits and STS9 packed the place. YMSB’s Jeff Austin sat in during “When I Paint My Masterpiece” and “Momma Tried.”

I came to Jam in the Dam most excited to see Galactic this year. Having seen them a lot, I really like their all-instrumental lineup, but it had been a year or more since I caught a show. Tonight, and for the next two, they were a joy! The first night included “Lickity Split,” a cover of Led Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song,” “Licorice” and a funky “Garbage Truck.” My night complete, I’d been up for around 40 hours, I stumbled back to the apartment for some sleep…much…needed…zzzzz

March 19

I turned 26 today (turned 25 in Amsterdam last year) and felt like just walking alone and thinking for a while. It’s wonderfully enlivening to peek outside and realize you’re partying halfway across the world from home and all that you know. I’ll do it again, for sure.

Strolling through ancient alleyways guarded by towering buildings that appear to have been squeezed in and stretched tall to make them all fit, I made sure to stop through Grey Area, a coffeeshop offering discounts to ticket holders. Jon Foster, Grey Area’s owner, told me that Jam in the Dam is “the best festival we have in town.” For all new arrivals in the city he suggested that they, “come by the shop here to get oriented.” I suggest the same thing as the marijuana choices are extensive and Foster claims Grey Area to be “the original jamband shop,” with pictures of Phish’s visit on the wall to prove it. This place really feels like home, but back into the city…

When in Amsterdam, get high and get lost! It’s the only way to see the city. Not necessarily the high part, but you should certainly get lost. It’s the best way to see things you’d never imagine stumbling on, things certainly not an a tourist map, and when you’re completely turned around all there is to do is find an intersection nearest you, locate it on a map and you’re back on track. Now, to find my way back to the apartment...

At 8PM all of the musicians come out to sign the limited-edition posters made for this year’s Jam in the Dam. I passed on the poster signing, but it’s always a favorite for those who like to get a little closer to the talent. 

At 9PM Dark Star plugged in, playing and jamming long through “Lazy Lightning” and “Loser.” Austin visited again tonight during “Me and My Uncle” and “Big River.” Keller’s set followed the Dead vein as “Brown-Eyed Woman” was summoned, also with Austin sitting in. Being my birthday, I was extra happy when “Youth” came to life; in a moment it made the hassles of the travel more worthwhile. From his new album, he also played “Cadillac” and “Rainy Day,” later pulling an old favorite (“Freeker by the Speaker”), during which he whistled the Andy Griffith Show’s tune.

YMSB was hot again tonight, keeping the energy up when the available substances could keep it down. After an energetic “New Hope Rising” I left their side of The Melkweg to hear more Galactic: “Go-Go,” “Linthead,” “Moil” and “Hamp’s Hump” kept the funk heavy. Energy from the bands is necessary when the crowd is smoking unnatural amounts of ganja, just to make the most of their time in a city where it isn’t frowned upon. Lots of bass and drums will keep the legs moving when the ass wants to sit, so Galactic was perfect to close out the first two nights.

March 20

This is the last day I’ll wake up in Amsterdam this year, unless some unforeseen blessing comes at me, and it can be a downer. I won’t let it be, so I walk the city with my roommates and we take it in one last time. I’ll stay up all night after the concert tonight to leave early in the morning and catch my flight home. It’s an involving process to get back into the US and I don’t want my tardiness to hold me up. I can’t wait for tonight!

How about some extreme irony? Check this out: One hour before the show starts, I manage to get online and check my pile of MySpace messages and emails. A friend (friends) has written me to explain that the house I and two friends rent has caught fire and was swarmed by the fire department and police, who wrecked the place. I found a friend at The Melkweg (I was the 100th person through the entrance for the night and had a handful of confetti thrown in my face that I wish I could have enjoyed more at the time) with an international cell phone plan and called home for the entire news. The initial fire department personnel found some pipes and stuff when they went into our house to see if anyone was home, meaning that even though the fire damage wasn’t entirely consuming, the police that arrived got to tear the place to pieces. My computer and table were flipped over, as was my bed, etc. Luckily I’m all good and nothing was irreparable. Note to America: If your house catches fire you’d better hope they don’t find your weed, too!

The last night was a little wierd and worrying for me after hearing the news, but I was glad to at least hear everyone was alright. So I partied as hard as I could;  I had a lot of stuff to get rid of before they’d let me back on the plane home.

The blur of a night included Keller covering Kiss’ “Rock and Roll all Night,” playing “Gate Crasher” in a venue without gates to crash and with security that could stop any hippie. He introduced a song he claims to have written at age 5 while addicted to children’s vitamins – ha! To the tune of Jefferson Airplane’s “White Rabbit,” some lines read, “Call Wilma, I think she’ll know… remember what Wilma said, eat your Fred… Eat your Fred.” During a set of mostly acoustic numbers, “Best Feeling” exposed a juicy loop session.

Dark Star Orchestra played “Hey Pockey Way,” “Foolish Heart” and “The Wheel” before Keller joined during “Dark Star” > “Eyes of the World” > “Not Fade Away.” Even though Yonder Mountain String Band ended the night, mine ended with Galactic’s energy, which was just enough to help me drag myself back to the apartment and let some of the recent news set in on top of the event winding down on me. Some of Galactic’s best moments on this third night were starting off with “Doublewide” > “Mario Groove,” a later “Clock Stopper” and an oft-covered version of Hendrix’s “Manic Depression.”

It’s time to go get my coat from the coat check and walk to the apartment one last time. I’ll stay up, smoking, packing, replaying the past few days and hoping that I’ll get to come back next year.

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