Naeba Ski Resort. Niigata, Japan, July 27-29^th, 2007

“Lookin’ towards the future we were begging for the past. Well we know we’d had the good things, but those never seem to last. Oh please just last.” Okay, sure Modest Mouse wasn’t on this year’s Fuji Rock Festival bill, but oh how the good things associated lasted and lasted within in its 11^th edition held at Naeba Ski Resort.

Day 1 – Friday, July 27^th

After the opening-night fireworks and salvo to both liver and senses working overtime, I awake in the monumental sweat that greets the countless campers high above the river and Red Marquee Stage. Alas, this is par for the course, a golf course that is the home for the thousands laying feverish claim to the least angled plot of earth that still allows drainage for the imminent rains to come over the weekend. With seven consecutive runs earned, my eighth installment breathes a fresh consciousness among both new and veteran Fuji Rockers. As I unzip my tent, the refreshing breeze filing through the valley amid the overcast, yet warm skies beckons a lovely day ahead full of surprises as well as sure bets.

 While Damien Rice’s late cancellation coupled by Fishbone’s visa woes brings sighs, a cavalcade of alt heroes, known and soon-to-be-known begin this morning as the first notes ricochet and carry for a true lexicon of love high in the mountains. Stretching miles and miles, strewn alongside a river with stages and trails on both sides, another lovely lazy weekend of happy meandering is underway.

Following Hellogoodbye’s lead on the covered Red Marquee Stage, Blonde Redhead builds an infectious momentum for this three-plus-day pleasure cruise. The vast area and range assembled across this 13-stage spread again makes for tough choices as I primarily bounce between White and Green, catching the tail end of Japanese punk/ska favorites Kemuri on Green, then to White where Stevie Salas Colorcode is party host for this midday BBQ moment. Racing back to Green for Jarvis Cocker, his banter and suave delivery is most eloquent and witty. Comically, the 12-minute jaunt either way has me awash Kings of Leon, Money Mark, Muse, The John Butler Trio to long-absent icons The Cure closing out Green. The band pleasingly extended its set well beyond the slated timetable for broad smiles.

Again, no matter the stage, what instantly hits you is the all-encompassing powerful vibe born and shared within this annual commune. Like a sumptuous meal among solid company, you are happily lost in the moment. Yet this one lasts three days officially, but unofficially four. As the wind blows and makes it presence high above the stages where the flags fly, the vast sustained freedom and mutual respect makes Fuji Rock the flag-bearer for the continuance of the summer of love birthed 30 years ago. 

Day 2—Saturday July 28^th

With all night events in the distant Orange Court, central Red Marquee and adjacent food and entertainment Oasis area as well as the famed Palace of Wonder, no shortages of fun to imbibe. I choose the latter, enjoying the familiar carnival atmosphere, enjoying a late-night run with “Afro-Punk” director James Spooner and other usual suspects as sun arises. Retiring to the sprawling campsite, passing many early-morning shower people, I opt for the ever-convenient hose shower near my entourage’s gathering where bikini’s and board shorts are commonplace for those uninterested in making the long trek to the long lines and showers below.

 You can also enjoy the ever bolder move of experiencing a bone chilling, but invigorating waterfall rinse just minutes from the campsite’s edge. So many savory shades of enjoying these kind environs as maps are out and strategies are discussed. Matters go into high gear as Juliette & The Licks crank it to 11 from Green and motivates movement. I finally reach Green in time for the nonstop rump-shaking delivery of short-shorts wearing Nic Offer and the !!! (Chk Chk Chk) collective. Making their own fevered ocean in motion, Nic playfully signs off, “Good luck Iggy,” adding to the anticipation for Iggy & The Stooges set. Again, time to make my runs between stages I have become accustomed to, hustling to Red Marquee for Lily Allen while enjoying some Ethiopian courtesy of Queen Sheba (in perfect earshot of the stage). Sprinting to “the far reaches” as Leslie Feist’s Orange Court set begins to sail smoothly as a slight breeze says goodbye to daylight. Afterward, it’s back to White for Omar Rodriguez Lopez and to Green to see just how Iggy’s luck would hold up. More than this, Iggy (backed by the brothers Asheton and the man who made Flea, Mike Watt) is visceral, tight and full of swagger. No matter a bad hip, Iggy commands this funhouse in full and to the point, his callings for an onstage downpour in humanity realizes into a sustained chorus of chaos as the massive stage is inundated with fans in full freedom as Iggy somehow stays atop its endless ebb and flow and incessant clutches of obsessed fans. Didn’t see Nic, but sure he was proudly laughing from his respective perch.

After such a sensational sendoff, a bit of ASH on White while solid, rang quiet comparatively. Failing to enjoy FRF staple G. Love on his own, Gov’t Mule at Field of Heaven gets a bonus seasoning as G. Love sits in as part of their colossal 3-hour set. Collaborations, never a surprise at this festival where artists freely roam the range with fans alike, more smiles than Rourke and Tattoo could ever fathom are present in this real fantasy island. Perhaps Nic’s words should’ve been directed to Beastie Boys as their tri-engine generator just couldn’t crank out the horsepower of Iggy, no matter Mixmaster Mike’s scratching or Money Mark’s wild dance moves. Midnight movies, minus popcorn deliver a double-shot in music history with the “Afro-Punk” documentary that charts the course of Bad Brains, Fishbone and other foundation makers with African blood to present day punks as the following “London Calling” sheds light onto one of the true international men of intensity and integrity, Joe Strummer. Whether new or old, the new power generation of FRF’07 runs resplendent in The Palace of Wonder with Allen and others running happily amok as the sun rises once again, making you run on all cylinders.

Day 3—Sunday July 29^th

With only a smattering of rain thus far, the heat builds early as the crystal clear blue skies embrace me and my camping comrades to get on up as the great escape from our oven tents smacks of sweet relief. Injected by a realized air of urgency felt in knowing the end is near, the final day is of course and understandably a free-for-all to get out your ya yas before heading back to “civilization” as we know it.

After a quick hose down and fast cleaning, it’s go time with sunglasses, expedition hat, cargo shorts and Tevas as Paul Steel at the Red Marquee sounds the alarm. Catching the end of Deerhoof at White Stage shines solid through as Electrelane lands into the anatomically correct combo of Japan’s toe and The Shins. Battles keep the desired firefight ablaze into Vooredoms as a quick jaunt to Red gets final helpings of Clap Your Hands Yeah then back for Juno Reactor. Jonathan Richman pulls two sets this day and in catching the end of the latter at Palace of Wonder, a fitting finale from the still-wide-eyed boy from Massachusetts sets it all right as the air temp swiftly changes and you just know rain is just around the corner. Kwabana Lindsay’s musical acrobatics “Fiddler on the Rope” adds the frosting to the Richman sundae. As timeshare is made between Palace of Wonder and Red Marquee, rain begins to fall. Increasing in intensity by sunrise it is the expected downpour that simply never came during the three main days and makes for a fitting exodus of those procrastinating the last glorious full gasps of Fuji Rock ’07, with some ditching the tents, chairs and sleeping bags to make a run to the shuttle for Echigo-Yuzawa Station and a bullet train homeward bound.

Like Field of Dreams, since its building, the people have come for fondness of the foods, nature, new friends, old friends, music and awakenings experienced give a full belly that will be ready to be duly fed again come July 2008.